We’re sat along a communal bar, facing a wall full of magazine clippings and reviews for what this place specialises in - Black Truffle Sang Jin Bao. A sign tells us not to add any vinegar to this variant of the traditional Shanghainese bun, for fear of ruining the flavour. We obey. Another sign warns of the dangerously piping hot sauce within the buns - we’ll later regret not paying more attention to this...

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